Hmmm. The Big Island. The Big Island is like the humble warrior grandmother of Hawaii. She's a mystic, clothed in grandeur, fire, ancient wisdom and grace. In my travels, I like to think that I got to know her pretty well, but to say such things would be indulgent. Sure, I've driven up to Mauna Kea, only to lose my mind as the clouds circle in like leis, the sun sets the sky on fire and all of the universe's stars come out to wink at you. I've descended down so many dirt paths my feet are officially sacred. And I've been offered so many rides back up by the locals that my heart is pure shaka. Waipio has willed me to learn how to surf and shown me that there is no one right way to live. That it all can be done. Pele and her story (scroll down) have taught me that playing with fire is necessary in creation and that we, as humans, are perfect, whole and extremely adaptable. But there is so much, much more insight and methodology to be learned from the Big Island. But I trust, in good grandmama fashion, she will reveal them to me as I am ready. Until then...
The story of Pele
You will hear multiple versions of Pele's story as you travel the Big Island but there is one in particular that resonates more deeply with me and so, that will be the one I will share. It's a story of wonder, adventure, (and heartache). But first, a little background.
Pele was born to her father, Moe-moea-au-lii, the chief who dreamed of trouble, and her mother Haumea, or Papa, who personified mother earth. So it is only natural, that she is both creator and destroyer, the goddess of fire, lightning, dance, wind, volcanoes, and violence. And thus the creator of Hawaii, described as "She Who Shapes the Land." Now onto the story...
Pele's story is that of wanderlust. She was living in a happy home in the presence of her parents, and yet for a long time she was "stirred by thoughts of faraway lands." At last she asked her father to send her away. But this meant that he must provide a sea-going canoe with mat sails, large enough to carry a number of persons and food for many days.
Pele was sent to her oldest brother, Ka-moho-alii, the king of dragons, or, as he was later known in Hawaiian mythology, the god of sharks. He was a sea-god and would provide the great canoe for the journey. While he was getting things ready, he asked Pele where she was going. She replied, "I am going to Bola-bola; to Kuai-he-lani; to Kane-huna-moku; then to Moku-mana-mana; then to see a queen, Kaoahi her name and Niihau her island." Apparently her journey would be first to Bola-bola in the Society Islands, then among the mysterious ancestral islands, and then to the northwest until she found Niihau, the most northerly of the Hawaiian group.
The god of sharks prepared his large canoe and put it in the care of some of their relatives, Kane-pu-a-hio-hio (Kane-the-whirlwind), Ke-au-miki (The-strong-current), and Ke-au-ka (Moving-seas).
Pele was carried from land to land by these wise boatmen until at last she landed on the island Niihau, where she was welcomed and entertained by Kaoahi. (It is said that she sent back the boat to her brother, the shark-god and after a time, he brought all their brothers and sisters to Hawaii.)
After Niihau, she went over to Kauai, the large, beautiful garden island of the Hawaiian group, where she appeared as a dream maiden before the king of Kauai, Lohiau. They married, but shortly after, she started to feel that she needed to find a place where she could build a permanent home for herself and all who belonged to her. So she left in search of her home.
Pele, equipped with a magic digging tool called a pa-oa, started on her journey. The pa-oa, when struck into the earth, made a fire pit. It was with this pa-oa that she was to build a home for herself and Lohiau. She dug along the lowlands of Kauai, but water drowned the fires she kindled, so she went from island to island but could only dig along the beach near the sea. All her fire pits were so near the water that they burst out in great explosions of steam and sand, and quickly died, until at last she found Kilauea on the large island of Hawaii. There she built a mighty enduring palace of fire, only to eventually learn that her dream marriage was at an end. Her little sister Hiiaka had married Lohiau and lived on Kauai.
It is believed that whenever Kilauea's crater bursts with lava, it is Pele's jealousy, anger and wrath coming to the surface.
Okay, so the ending doesn't resonate... but the beginning DOES!! Haha! :)
P.S. I consciously decided to forgo filling this blog post with too many specifics of my trip or tips of what to do or see. Every person is unique and different. Only you know what you want to experience. You are your own compass. Be the way :) Unless your way is underestimating how much time you'll spend at Papakolea and missing out on Punalu'u Bakery's malasadas. Don't do that! It's my biggest food-related regret EVER!
Do you have any vacation regrets? Related to food or otherwise? If so, I'd love to hear them so leave a comment!! :)
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